Fashion has always been intertwined with time. Whether it be Cristóbal Balenciaga’s exploration of architectural silhouettes, Martin Margiela’s reinterpretation of vintage pieces, or the recent trend of designers transforming historical archives into new design languages, truly enduring fashion creations establish new connections across different temporal dimensions. OBSCURE EPOQUE, the graduation collection by Hanwei Cheng, a menswear designer from the London College of Fashion, develops its narrative precisely within this context. Through two historically distant systems – the Belle Époque and military materials – it reimagines how time is stitched together and reorganised, becoming a new language of menswear.
The Belle Époque has long symbolised European society’s pursuit of the ultimate in art, craftsmanship and the aesthetics of daily life at the end of the nineteenth century, while military sleeping bags and military-grade fabrics belong to a distinct material system centred on functionality, protection and survival. In his design process, Hanwei Cheng delved into the structural logic behind these elements. The Belle Époque’s pursuit of curves, ornamentation and three-dimensional silhouettes, combined with the construction of military equipment that emphasises durability, coverage and functionality, has been reorganised in his designs to form a structure for menswear that combines sculptural quality with wearability. History is thus no longer only a source of design inspiration, but has become a design methodology that actively participates in the creation of clothing.
One aspect of OBSCURE EPOQUE warranting attention is its preservation of the ‘prehistory’ of materials. Old military sleeping bags and surplus military fabrics retain their original identity even after entering the fashion system. They served to protect the body and shield it from the elements, and bear the marks of time left by actual use. In his designs, Hanwei Cheng allows the materials’ inherent texture, thickness and structure to continue to play a part in the construction of the new garments. This approach takes sustainable design further than just recycling materials. The time the materials have endured coexists within a single piece with the time the wearer is about to experience.
Alongside this, Hanwei Cheng demonstrates considerable command of structural form. Through intricate three-dimensional tailoring, layered compositions and volumetric relationships, his work continues to explore the possibilities of the menswear silhouette. This command of volume, tailoring and three-dimensional structure enables his designs to retain the wearability expected of haute couture, while also embodying the artistic expression sought by experimental fashion, striking a considered balance between function and concept.
Crucially, OBSCURE EPOQUE embodies Hanwei Cheng’s independent thinking on the evolution of contemporary menswear. In recent years, men’s clothing has begun to break free from the confines of functionalism and minimalism, with an increasing number of designers re-examining the possibilities of the male form, decorative language and emotional expression. From Craig Green infusing workwear with a new sense of spirituality, to Jonathan Anderson disrupting established proportions in menswear, and Wales Bonner rewriting cultural identity, menswear is continually entering a more open and diverse creative phase. Hanwei Cheng’s designs likewise respond to this trend. He establishes a restrained and tension-filled relationship between history, materials, craftsmanship and structure, endowing menswear with more complex emotional layers and forging his own distinctive design language.
OBSCURE EPOQUE is more than just a graduation collection. It reflects the design practice of a young designer who has developed considered research capabilities and a clear sense of design identity. By integrating historical research, material experimentation, three-dimensional draping and sustainable principles into a comprehensive methodology, Hanwei Cheng ensures that his designs are grounded in rigorous thought. Through this creative approach, he points to the broader potential of a new generation of British menswear designers.
