A South Korean company is turning starfish into an ingredient for cosmetics. STAR’s Tech launched PENELLAGEN in 2021 as part of a business that also uses starfish-derived materials to make de-icer and fertiliser, according to BeautyTech.jp. BeautyTech.jp (source, opens in new tab)
BeautyTech.jpStarfish-derived collagen from South Korea's STAR's TechOpen source (opens in new tab)
The ingredient uses collagen peptides—small fragments of collagen, a structural protein found in skin and other tissues. These are enclosed in tiny, flexible carriers made from fatty materials, known as elastic nanoliposomes. Korea University (source, opens in new tab)
Korea UniversityAsterias pectinifera derived collagen peptide-encapsulating elastic nanoliposomes for the cosmetic applicationOpen source (opens in new tab)
A peer-reviewed study published in 2021 found that these carriers enclosed a higher proportion of starfish peptides than of peptides from pigs or fish. That offers a reason to investigate the material for cosmetics, but does not show that a skincare product containing it improves people’s skin.
The researchers studied peptides from the starfish Asterias pectinifera. Alongside the carrier comparison, they examined MMP-1, an enzyme associated with skin ageing caused by ultraviolet light. The formulation reduced its UV-induced expression in the experiment. This was a laboratory finding, not a direct measurement of wrinkle reduction or visible skin improvement.
The research was conducted in collaboration with STAR’s Tech, whose CEO was a co-author. It therefore provides peer-reviewed evidence involving the company, rather than independent confirmation of the commercial ingredient’s performance.
For a cosmetic ingredient, successfully enclosing peptides is only part of the task. The evidence reviewed does not establish whether PENELLAGEN reaches the deeper layer of skin known as the dermis, or demonstrate its safety and effectiveness in people.
- BeautyTech.jp · News reportStarfish-derived collagen from South Korea's STAR's Techbeautytech.jp · opens in new tab
- Korea University · Peer-reviewed studyAsterias pectinifera derived collagen peptide-encapsulating elastic nanoliposomes for the cosmetic applicationpure.korea.ac.kr · opens in new tab
