The researchers compared a skincare regimen containing a peptide serum on one side of the face with a moisturiser-based regimen on the other. In two small trials examining recovery after laser treatment or radiofrequency microneedling, this comparison produced mixed results. Some measurements favoured the serum, but neither trial found a statistically significant advantage in the main measure of redness chosen before testing began. Dermatology and Therapy (source, opens in new tab)
Dermatology and TherapyEfficacy and Safety of a Topical Skincare Regimen with Tripeptide/Hexapeptide following Aesthetic Procedures: Analysis of Two Randomized, Split-Face Trials in Asian SubjectsOpen source (opens in new tab)
The serum-containing regimen used ALASTIN Regenerating Skin Nectar, while the comparison regimen was based on Cetaphil Daily Hydrating Lotion. The serum contains peptides—short chains of amino acids—alongside other ingredients. Comparing these regimens can reveal differences in recovery, but cannot establish whether the peptides themselves caused any benefit.
The favourable findings included less swelling at particular follow-up visits and, after laser treatment, an improvement in a measure of the skin’s ability to retain water. These are reasons to investigate further. The small, exploratory trials do not yet establish whether the differences translate into a meaningful overall improvement in recovery.
Both studies took place at one centre in China. Twenty-six participants completed follow-up after fractional carbon dioxide (CO₂) laser treatment, and 25 after radiofrequency microneedling. The side receiving the serum-containing regimen was randomly assigned. Evaluators assessing recovery did not know which side had received the serum, although participants did. Neither study used a formal calculation to determine how many participants it needed.
The main test was the change in redness assessed by an investigator seven days after laser treatment and three days after microneedling. Both facial sides improved, but neither study found a statistically significant difference between them at those times. This leaves the serum’s advantage on that measure unproven; it does not establish that the products perform identically.
Some additional measurements told a more encouraging story. For example, after laser treatment, results favoured the serum for water loss through the skin at day three, swelling at day 14 and instrument-measured redness at day 14. After microneedling, swelling favoured the serum at day seven. These differences remained statistically significant after an adjustment designed to reduce the risk of chance findings when many comparisons are made. Most other comparisons did not.
The water-loss measurement helps assess how well the skin’s barrier retains moisture. Its favourable result after laser treatment was not seen after microneedling. The later redness finding also needs to be kept distinct from the main result: an instrument measured redness at day 14, whereas the primary laser assessment relied on an investigator’s judgement at day seven. These findings describe different aspects and stages of recovery.
Participants’ impressions were more positive. At day 14, 81.8% of laser-study participants and all microneedling-study participants reported better overall relief and recovery on the serum-treated side. Knowing which product they were using could have influenced those judgements. The authors also acknowledged that products might have transferred between facial sides, blurring the comparison. Adverse events were few and mostly mild.
The dermatology company Galderma funded both studies and the journal’s publication fee; three authors were company employees. Larger confirmatory studies would need to establish whether the selected improvements recur and make a meaningful difference to recovery. For now, the evidence concerns one multi-ingredient serum used after two specific procedures. It cannot establish a general recovery benefit for peptide skincare. Galderma (source, opens in new tab)
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- Dermatology and Therapy · Peer-reviewed studyEfficacy and Safety of a Topical Skincare Regimen with Tripeptide/Hexapeptide following Aesthetic Procedures: Analysis of Two Randomized, Split-Face Trials in Asian Subjectspmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov · opens in new tab
